Hyams Garden Center and Accent Store

Serving Greater Charleston Area with Quality, Variety & Professionalism since 1981

Gardening Wisdom

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February Lawn Tasks

__Get soil tests to prepare for Spring lime and fertilizer applications. 2cups of soil from each area in question or a random combined sample can be taken to Clemson Ag Extension office at 259 Meeting St, the second floor of the Senior Citizens Center, Mon-Fri 8:00-4:00. $6.00 per sample. More information available at www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic.

__Calculate yard square footage of each area for how much lime/fertilizer/herbicide/insecticide you may need. Help with this can be found in our store or on the website for Clemson Cooperative Extension Home and Garden Information Center www.clemson.edu/extension/hgic.

__Plan your pre-emergent herbicide applications for 3rd or 4th week of this month. Scotts WeedEx (pendimethalin) should be applied at this time to well established lawns to prevent crabgrass, spurge, oxalis and other listed weeds. One 10 lb. bag treats 5000 sq ft. It should be applied to dry grass with a broadcast (we lend these) or drop spreader and watered in with approximately ¼ inch water. Remember not to overseed treated areas because pendamethalin prevents seed germination. Also do not rake or otherwise disturb soil bed as this would break the chemical barrier in the soil. Do not re-apply pendamethalin for at least 8 weeks. As always, be sure to read the label carefully and follow all directions. For extended crabgrass and broadleaf control, an application of Hi-Yield Turf & Ornamental Weed & Grass Stopper with Dimension may be applied 4-6 weeks later. Wait until at least mid March to start any fertilizer programs.

__Now is the time to prune most deciduous trees and shrubs. Crape myrtles, Chinese elms, Japanese maples, red maples and oaks could all benefit from a thoughtfully planned prune this month. Remove crossing and thin branches to allow for more light and air flow. Wait on spring flowering trees like purple leaf plums, cherries, redbuds and tulip (Japanese) magnolias until after they bloom. Summer flowering shrubs like roses, callicarpa, hibiscus and most grasses can be pruned this month. Some evergreens like ligustrum and hollies can be pruned between now and the first of April. Leave Spring flowering shrubs like azalea, spiraea, indian hawthorn and gardenias until after they have flowered. Wait until April to prune camellia, then fertilize them along with gardenia, azaleas and hollies with Holly-Tone. Do not hesitate to call Randy at 843-795-4570 in the store or e-mail at rhowie@hyamsgardencenter.com if you have questions.

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Christmas Rose

Celebrated in songs and stories, Helleborus Niger (Black Hellebore) is commonly known as Christmas Rose as it blooms in winter. It too is an evergreen perennial with large, bowl shaped glistening white flowers with golden stamens. They grow in zone 4 to 8 and ‘HGC Jacob’, ‘HGC Josef Lemper’ and ‘Potter’s Wheel’ are some of the common species of Christmas Roses. 

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Winter Blooms in Charleston

Winter annuals tolerate cold temperature and bloom even in cool season. Dianthus, viola, pansy, wallflower, bergenia, foxglove, dusty miller are some of the Winter Annuals that tolerate cold temperature up to 19 degrees. Diascia, nemesia, nierembergia, linaria (miniature snapdragon) survive a normal winter and tolerate temperature up to 24 degrees. The least cold tolerant are geranium, alyssum, lobelia and calendula as they do not tolerate temperature below 30 degrees.

Since the date of the first frost varies from year to year, it is difficult to predict how long different winter annuals will last each winter. Snapdragon and stock do not do well an unusually cold winter. Flower pots in the porch do provide us with a great opportunity to save some of the less-cold-tolerant winter annuals. Visit Hyams Garden Center to take home a winter annual of your choice to add color to your front or back porch.

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Amaryllis Bulbs as Christmas Gifts

Because of their stunning colorful blooms, AMARYLLIS bulbs have been given traditionally as Christmas Gifts to family and friends. Native to the subtropical regions of Americas, Amaryllis serve as a perfect gift to brighten the dark days of winter for our loved ones. This brightly colored flower is available in myriad color combinations and even rival the poinsettias as the official holiday plant. They primarily bloom in summer in their natural state in the ground. However, their bulbs can be potted and induced to re-bloom in the winter adding lively color to an indoor setting.  

Planting

Plant bulbs in nutritious potting compost, many are available pre-mixed. Plant the bulb up to its neck in the potting mix with compost, being careful not to damage the roots. Press the soil down firmly to set the bulb securely in place after planting.

Placement and Watering

Plant the bulb, or place the potted bulb in a warm place with direct light since heat is necessary for the development of the stems. The ideal temperature is 68-70. Water sparingly until the stem appears, then, as the bud and leaves appear, gradually water more. At this point, the stem will grow rapidly and flowers will develop after it has reached full growth.

Flowering Period

Bulbs will flower in 7–10 weeks as a general rule. In winter the flowering time will be longer than in spring. Set up your planting schedule between October and April with this in mind.

After-Bloom Care

After-Flowering: After the amaryllis has stopped flowering, it can be made to flower again. Cut the old flowers from the stem after flowering, and when the stem starts to sag, cut if back to the top of the bulb.
Leaf Growth and Development: Continue to water and fertilize as normal all summer, or for at least 5-6 months, allowing the leaves to fully develop and grow. When the leaves begin to yellow, which normally occurs in the early fall, cut the leaves back to about 2” from the top of the bulb and remove the bulb from the soil.
Bulb Storage: Clean the bulb and place it in a cool (40-50), dark place such as the crisper of your refrigerator for a minimum of 6 weeks. Caution: Do not store amaryllis bulbs in a refrigerator that contains apples, this will sterilize the bulbs. Store the bulbs for a minimum of 6 weeks.
Plant Again: After 6 weeks you may remove the bulbs whenever you would like to plant them. Plant bulbs 8 weeks before you would like them to bloom.

GROWING AMARYLLIS: Gardeners in areas where temperatures do not go below 10 (Zones 8-10) can plant Amaryllis bulbs directly in the ground. Choose a site with full sun (at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily) and well-drained soil. In frost-free areas, plant the bulb with the neck at, or slightly above, ground level. Once growth starts, water only if rain is infrequent and the top two inches of soil are dry. After the leaves appear, fertilize with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10); repeat once a month through April. From June through September, keep the area dry. If leaves turn yellow, cut them off at the base.

POTTING AMARYLLIS: Pot bulbs individually in 6-7” pots or group 3 bulbs together in a 10-12” container. Begin by placing a well-drained potting mix in a plastic tub. Slowly add warm water and stir with your hand until the mix is moist but not soggy. Then fill the pot about half with potting mix, set the bulb on top of the mix and fill in around the bulb with additional mix. Adjust the position of the bulb as needed, so that the top third of the bulb is exposed. The final level of the mix should be about ½” below the rim of the pot to allow for watering. Firm the mix and water lightly to settle it around the bulbs. Then follow the “Pre-bloom Care” instructions below.

PRE-BLOOM CARE OF AMARYLLIS: Place the pot where the temperature remains above 60. The warmer the temperature (70-80night and day is ideal), the faster the bulb will sprout and grow. Providing bottom heat (by setting the pot on a propagation mat or on the top of a refrigerator) may help stimulate growth. Water only when the top inch of the potting mix is dry to the touch. Watering more frequently, particularly just after potting, can cause the bulb to rot. (If the pot is covered with Spanish Moss, lift the moss and pour water directly on the potting mix.)

Growth generally begins in 2-8 weeks. Certain varieties of Amaryllis may take more time to sprout. As long as your bulb remains firm, be patient and take care not to overwater. Provide ample sunshine (a south-facing window or a sunroom) as soon as the bulb sprouts. Rotate the pot frequently to prevent the flower stalks from leaning toward the light.

HOW TO GROW AMARYLLIS BULBS IN WATER

Using a Shallow Container: Select a wide, shallow container no deeper than 4” with enough room to fit as many amaryllis bulbs as you want. Fill it halfway with gravel or stones. Place gravel or stones around the bulbs until only the tip 1/3 of the bulbs is visible. The gravel holds the bulbs steady and ensures that they remain upright. Add enough water to the container to fill the bottom but not touch the bulbs. The roots will grow down into the water. Don’t let waster touch the bulb. It will cause it to rot. Place the container in a cool, dark room until you see root and top growth, about 2 to 3 weeks. Check the water level daily. The room should remain at 50-60℉. Using an unheated garage is ideal. Move the container into a bright room, but keep it out during the day and do not fall below 60℉ at night. Check the water level daily. It should still not reach the bulbs. The amaryllis will bloom in 6 to 8 weeks after being moved into the bright room and should last for 4 to 6 weeks.

Using a Glass Vase: Select a glass vase narrow enough to keep the amaryllis bulb in the neck, or use a forcing vase. Fill the bottom of the vase with water. Place the bulb in the vase, making sure it does not touch the water. Place the vase in a cool, dark room until you see root and top growth, about 2 to 3 weeks. Move the vase into a bright room but keep it out of direct light. You will have blooms in 6 to 8 weeks.