Hyams Garden Center and Accent Store

Serving Greater Charleston Area with Quality, Variety & Professionalism since 1981

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The Art of Bonsai: A Thousand Years Old and Still going Strong

The ancient art of Bonsai began over a thousand years ago in China and was actually known then as Pun-Sai. Later, Japan adopted many cultural trademarks of the Chinese with this art form being one of them. The name then became bonsai meaning, “tray planting.” As time progressed, the ideals of bonsai changed and for the Japanese, bonsai became a representation of the combination between their ancient beliefs and the Eastern way of thinking – the harmony found between man, the soul and nature. In today’s world, bonsai is a great symbol of Japanese culture that can be experienced all over the world.

Caring for a bonsai is not very difficult. Be sure to keep the bonsai evenly moist at all times and when watering, water thoroughly when the surface soil becomes dry to the touch. Let the bonsai dry out before you water it and use a gentle spray for watering through the foliage to keep it clean. When the temperatures are high and humidity is low, bonsai should be watered once a day.

If you have a needled evergreen, keep it outside in part to full sun. Maples, elms, and other deciduous trees should be in filtered sun along with subtropical bonsais. Be sure to let you bonsai be outside every so often to keep it healthy.

When fertilizing, use a fish emulsion fertilizer diluted to 1/3 of the manufacturer’s directions. Liquid fertilizer should be applied every two weeks from spring to mid-summer. Use this diluted fertilizer as though you were watering your bonsai, but DO NOT spray the fertilizer directly on the foliage, spray into the soil only!

If you are looking for a bonsai, check out the nice selection at Hyams in the Greenhouse!

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North Carolina Fraser Fir Christmas Trees

The perfect Christmas Tree: Fresh, Fragrant and safe

Make a Fresh Cut

Straight across the base of the tree, cut off approximately one half inch before placing tree in stand.

Use a stand that will hold a gallon of water or more

Check Water often, Keep the stand full

A tree may take up a gallon of water in the first 24 hours and a quart a day after that. Preservatives are not needed, just plenty of fresh water.

Place tree away from heat sources, heating vents, fire places, wood stoves, radiators and sunny windows

Check lights and cords for broken bulbs and frayed wiring

Do not overload electric circuits

Turn off lights before leaving home or going to bed

Remember, a fresh cut, plenty of water, and a bit of common sense is all it takes to enjoy your North Carolina Fraser Fir.

Visit us on the web: www.ncchristmastrees.com

Information courtesy of NCSU Cooperative Extension

North Carolina Dept. of Agriculture & Consumer Services

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Planting and Care of Amaryllis

Plant amaryllis bulbs in nutritious potting compost, many are available pre-mixed. Plant the bulb up to its neck in the potting mix with compost, being careful not to damage the roots. Press the soil down firmly to set the bulb securely in place after planting.

Placement and Watering

Plant the bulb, or place the potted bulb in a warm place with direct light since heat is necessary for the development of the stems. The ideal temperature is 68-70. Water sparingly until the stem appears, then, as the bud and leaves appear, gradually water more. At this point, the stem will grow rapidly and flowers will develop after it has reached full growth.

Flowering Period

Bulbs will flower in 7–10 weeks as a general rule. In winter the flowering time will be longer than in spring. Set up your planting schedule between October and April with this in mind.

After-Bloom Care

After-Flowering: After the amaryllis has stopped flowering, it can be made to flower again. Cut the old flowers from the stem after flowering, and when the stem starts to sag, cut if back to the top of the bulb.

Leaf Growth and Development: Continue to water and fertilize as normal all summer, or for at least 5-6 months, allowing the leaves to fully develop and grow. When the leaves begin to yellow, which normally occurs in the early fall, cut the leaves back to about 2” from the top of the bulb and remove the bulb from the soil.
Bulb Storage: Clean the bulb and place it in a cool (40-50), dark place such as the crisper of your refrigerator for a minimum of 6 weeks. Caution: Do not store amaryllis bulbs in a refrigerator that contains apples, this will sterilize the bulbs. Store the bulbs for a minimum of 6 weeks.
Plant Again: After 6 weeks you may remove the bulbs whenever you would like to plant them. Plant bulbs 8 weeks before you would like them to bloom.

GROWING AMARYLLIS: Gardeners in areas where temperatures do not go below 10 (Zones 8-10) can plant Amaryllis bulbs directly in the ground. Choose a site with full sun (at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily) and well-drained soil. In frost-free areas, plant the bulb with the neck at, or slightly above, ground level. Once growth starts, water only if rain is infrequent and the top two inches of soil are dry. After the leaves appear, fertilize with a balanced fertilizer (such as 10-10-10); repeat once a month through April. From June through September, keep the area dry. If leaves turn yellow, cut them off at the base.

POTTING AMARYLLIS: Pot bulbs individually in 6-7” pots or group 3 bulbs together in a 10-12” container. Begin by placing a well-drained potting mix in a plastic tub. Slowly add warm water and stir with your hand until the mix is moist but not soggy. Then fill the pot about half with potting mix, set the bulb on top of the mix and fill in around the bulb with additional mix. Adjust the position of the bulb as needed, so that the top third of the bulb is exposed. The final level of the mix should be about ½” below the rim of the pot to allow for watering. Firm the mix and water lightly to settle it around the bulbs. Then follow the “Pre-bloom Care” instructions below.

PRE-BLOOM CARE OF AMARYLLIS: Place the pot where the temperature remains above 60. The warmer the temperature (70-80night and day is ideal), the faster the bulb will sprout and grow. Providing bottom heat (by setting the pot on a propagation mat or on the top of a refrigerator) may help stimulate growth. Water only when the top inch of the potting mix is dry to the touch. Watering more frequently, particularly just after potting, can cause the bulb to rot. (If the pot is covered with Spanish Moss, lift the moss and pour water directly on the potting mix.)
Growth generally begins in 2-8 weeks. Certain varieties of Amaryllis may take more time to sprout. As long as your bulb remains firm, be patient and take care not to overwater. Provide ample sunshine (a south-facing window or a sunroom) as soon as the bulb sprouts. Rotate the pot frequently to prevent the flower stalks from leaning toward the light.

HOW TO GROW AMARYLLIS BULBS IN WATER

Using a Shallow Container: Select a wide, shallow container no deeper than 4” with enough room to fit as many amaryllis bulbs as you want. Fill it halfway with gravel or stones. Place gravel or stones around the bulbs until only the tip 1/3 of the bulbs is visible. The gravel holds the bulbs steady and ensures that they remain upright. Add enough water to the container to fill the bottom but not touch the bulbs. The roots will grow down into the water. Don’t let waster touch the bulb. It will cause it to rot. Place the container in a cool, dark room until you see root and top growth, about 2 to 3 weeks. Check the water level daily. The room should remain at 50-60℉. Using an unheated garage is ideal. Move the container into a bright room, but keep it out during the day and do not fall below 60℉ at night. Check the water level daily. It should still not reach the bulbs. The amaryllis will bloom in 6 to 8 weeks after being moved into the bright room and should last for 4 to 6 weeks.

Using a Glass Vase: Select a glass vase narrow enough to keep the amaryllis bulb in the neck, or use a forcing vase. Fill the bottom of the vase with water. Place the bulb in the vase, making sure it does not touch the water. Place the vase in a cool, dark room until you see root and top growth, about 2 to 3 weeks. Move the vase into a bright room but keep it out of direct light. You will have blooms in 6 to 8 weeks.

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Guidelines for the Care of Tillandsia

Tillandsia come in many different sizes, shapes, textures, and colors. All tillandsia are easy to grow. Tillandsia are in the bromeliad family (Bromeliaceae) and originate from South and Central America. Tillandsia’s foliage consists of absorbent, furry scales which take up water from humid air. The most well-known species of tillandsia (T.usneoides) is Spanish Moss and is found throughout America in warmer, humid regions, hanging from trees such as live oak.

HUMIDITY – Tillandsia prefer high humidity in order to absorb both water and nutrients. Normal room temperature is suggested with a minimum of 50˚ Fahrenheit/10˚ Centigrade. Brown leaf tips are indications that the humidity must be increased.

WATERING – Water is absorbed through the furry scales on the foliage, therefore the best method for watering is to mist the plant with a spray bottle, thoroughly wetting the leaves. During the summer, mist the plant twice a week; during the winter, mist the plant once a week or once every two weeks.

FERTILIZE – Fertilizing is not required, however a half-strength solution of high-potash liquid fertilizer can be added to the misting water once every week in spring and summer.

LIGHT – Tillandsia require bright indirect light or full shade outside, BUT NO DIRECT SUN.

POTTING – Tillandsia are air plants, so they get their nutrients from their foliage. Potting of Tillandsia will cause rotting at the base of the plant. Tillandsia can be left with no mounting, or they can be mounted on wood or bark. Tillandsia can be found on the limbs of trees. Roots are used for anchorage.